Remove the outer and inner negative air piston o-rings as well as the outer positive air piston o-ring. Slide negative air spring sleeve back onto air spring shaft. To change the travel of your fork, slide negative sleeve down and snap the travel spacer onto seal head to decrease travel, or remove to increase travel.
Re-apply fresh suspension oil to new positive and negative air piston o-rings. Slide the negative air piston sleeve down air spring shaft and into the bottom of the upper tube. Continue to slide entire negative air spring sleeve into upper tube. Thread Dual Air spring assembly threaded base retainer into the upper tube by hand. Make sure fork is positioned upright in workstand. Adjust travel setting to max full travel. Push external retaining clip from above U-Turn knob with a pick or screwdriver and remove adjuster knob.
Pull down on the Air U-Turn shaft and remove the entire spring assembly from the bottom of 5 6 7 the upper tube. Remove teflon washer from inside of top cap. To remove, push down with a pick or flat-head screwdriver.
Washer will exit bottom of the upper tube. Remove small external retaining ring located at the bottom of the air chamber using external snap ring pliers, then remove guide plate. Push down on seal head with a flat-head screwdriver position screwdriver head against step, away from shaft and free the retaining ring from the seal head. Once seal head slides into air tube, remove seal head retaining ring, using snap ring pliers.
Pull air shaft, negative air seal head and positive air piston assemblies out of air tube. Slide and 8 10 remove aluminum seal head from air shaft. Spray isopropyl alcohol on air shaft and wipe with a clean rag not pictured.
Remove seal head from air piston shaft. Remove the inner and outer seal head o-rings as well as the small outer o-ring located on the air piston shaft groove. Holding the air tube, place upper choke assembly end of flat surface.
Firmly press tube down on flat surface to break the seal and push choke assembly through tube. Use a non-metallic dowel to continue to push the assembly through and out of the air tube.
Spray isopropyl alcohol on the inside and outside of the air tube and wipe with a clean rag. Remove external choke retaining ring from travel adjustment shaft, using external snap ring pliers. Remove external choke o-ring. Apply a few drops of suspension oil to new o-ring and re- install. Remove upper seal head from adjuster shaft. Use a flat head screwdriver and remove inner o- ring retaining ring.
Then remove both the inner and outer seal head o-rings. Use a flat head screwdriver to re-install inner o-ring retaining ring. Re-install upper seal head onto travel adjustment shaft and apply suspension oil to 18 19 20 adjuster shaft and inner seal head o-ring. Install choke piston and secure with a NEW 10 mm external retaining ring, using external snap ring pliers. Apply suspension oil to both piston o-rings.
Apply a thin film of grease to the inside groove of the open end of the air spring tube. Insert 21 22 23 the upper choke assembly into open end of air spring tube, schrader valve first, and press completely into air tube. Using a long non-metallic dowel, push assembly up into the air tube until seated flush against the rolled end of the air tube.
Hold air tube with open end up. This will lubricate the choke o-ring and positive air piston o-ring when fork is 24 25 compressed. Set aside air tube, upright, so oil does not spill.
Re-apply suspension oil to inner seal head o- ring and slide negative air seal head onto Dual Air shaft, flat end first. Slide up to bottom out bumper. Re-apply suspension oil to positive and negative air piston o-rings and insert positive air piston into open end of air spring. Push air shaft assembly into air tube. Using a small flathead screwdriver, press down 26 27 on seal head shaft step to seat into place inside air tube.
Secure seal head into air tube with retaining ring, using internal snap ring pliers. Add air to the positive air chamber psi to ensure assembly components are seated properly inside air tube. Insert air tube guide plate into the end of air tube. Secure around small seal head groove 28 29 with a new 13 mm external retaining ring, using external snap ring pliers. Verify retaining ring is seated against guide plate so it cannot move freely. Place Teflon washer over threaded shaft end, flat against travel shaft.
Insert Air U-Turn 30 31 32 assembly into bottom of left fork upper tube, adjuster end first. Slide into upper tube until upper assembly engages top cap. Thread assembly into top cap by holding the bottom of the air shaft and turning Counter-clockwise until it stops. Insert each detent spring into top cap detent holes, evenly spaced. Place Air U-Turn adjuster knob on hex shaft end. Secure knob on air shaft with external retaining ring, using external snap ring pliers. Make sure retaining ring is inserted into groove, not air shaft threads.
Remove all air pressure from the system by depressing air valve at the bottom of the left 1 2 3 leg, and then remove the 2-Step schrader valve using a Schrader valve tool. Using a 2 mm hex wrench remove 2-Step adjuster fixing screw and control knob. Using a 24 mm socket wrench, unthread and remove the 2-Step top cap.
Inspect 2-Step top cap o-ring for damage. Replace if necessary. Remove fork from bicycle stand and pour any remaining oil into oil pan. Return fork to bicycle 4 5 6 stand. Using external snap ring pliers, remove retaining ring from the bottom of the left upper tube. Gently pull down on the air shaft to remove the entire 2-Step assembly.
Remove lower seal head from shaft assembly and set aside. Separate the 2-Step assembly into 3 parts: shaft assembly, air tube, and piston housing in order in picture.
Remove piston from the IFP piston housing. Inspect IFP piston housing for damage or scratches, paying close attention the inside surface of the IFP piston housing. If damaged or scratched, replace the IFP piston housing. Remove piston o-ring. Clean piston with isopropyl alcohol. Inspect IFP piston housing o-ring for damage. The IFP should be inserted into the housing with the o-ring side down.
Wrap a clean rag around a long dowel and 14 15 insert into the upper tube to clean inside the upper tube. Inspect the air tube for damage and scratches. Replace if damaged or scratched not pictured. Return to lower seal head. Remove inner and outer lower seal head o-rings. Remove lower floating piston from the air shaft assembly. Remove lower floating piston inner and outer o-rings.
Spray lower floating piston with isopropyl alcohol and wipe with a clean rag. Remove rubber cushion and using a flat head screw driver, carefully remove top out spring assembly from the air shaft.
Spray with isopropyl alcohol and wipe with a clean rag. Using external snap ring pliers, remove the retaining ring and wavy spring washer located on top of the main piston. Remove the inner and outer piston o-rings. Spray the main piston with isopropyl alcohol and wipe with a clean rag. Inspect the face seal o-ring, making sure it is seated properly. A properly seated o-ring will not have any distortion in its shape not pictured. Spray air shaft with isopropyl alcohol and wipe with a clean rag.
Inspect air shaft for damage or scratches. Reassemble main piston and kick plate and 20 21 22 install onto air shaft. Slide wavy washer on top of main piston and secure into place with snap ring.
Install top out spring assembly, rubber cushion, and lower floating piston onto air shaft. Do not install lower seal head at this time. Install shaft assembly into air tube, air valve first, in the side opposite the two holes on the air tube. Install lower seal head on shaft assembly.
Insert the IFP piston housing into the air tube assembly, being careful not to spill the oil already in air tube. Insert the 2-Step assembly into the bottom of the upper tube. Secure with retaining ring. Gently pull down on air shaft to extend to maximum length. Using the 2-Step adjuster knob, turn the adjuster to the minumum travel setting. Remove the adjuster knob and using a 24 mm socket wrench, tighten top cap to 60 in-lb.
Install 2-Step adjuster knob and secure fixing screw with a 2 mm hex wrench. Install schrader valve into bottom of air shaft, 31 using schrader valve tool. Add psi to the 2-Step system. Rotate adjuster knob to minimum travel position and compress air shaft to ensure proper function. Rotate adjuster knob to full travel position and verify return to full extension.
Once you have re-installed your fork lowers, you will have successfully servised your fork and you will be ready to ride!
Spray upper tubes with isopropyl alcohol and wipe with a clean rag not pictured. Pour or inject 15wt suspension oil onto new or clean foam rings, just under dust seals inside each lower leg.
Slide lower leg assembly on the upper tubes until you feel the lower bushing touch the end of the upper tubes. Measure and inject suspension oil into lower legs through each shaft bolt hole, 6 according the bottom volume values found in the Oil Volume chart located in the Getting Started Information section of this manual. Wipe all excess oil from lower legs. Inspect and clean air spring shaft bolts, black nylon crush washers and crush wash retainers. Replace crush washers and crush washer retainers if damaged not pictured.
Insert rebound damper and air spring shaft bolts into threaded shaft ends, through lower leg shaft holes and tighten with a 5 mm hex or 10 mm socket wrench to 60in-lb. Push in until secure. For air spring forks, refer to the air chart on your fork and inflate positive and negative air chambers to appropriate psi. Spray isopropyl alcohol on entire fork and wipe with a clean rag not pictured. Thread positive and negative air valve cap covers onto air top cap.
If you ride in extreme conditions, maintenance should be performed more frequently. Remove the front wheel. Remove the front brake. Loosen the stem bolt s and remove the stem with the handlebar intact. Carefully pull the fork down out of the headtube. Retain spacers and headset parts as you go. With the front side of the i-Ride fork facing you, locate the top of the steerer tube and write the word 'front' on the steerer tube in permanent marker. Using either a 14 mm socket on the end of a a.
Invert the fork and let d. Using a pick, pull the lock washer off of the threaded insert. Apply blue threadlock Loctite to the threads per 7 9 manufacturer's instructions not pictured. This will allow time for the threadlock to dry.
Carefully cut the zip tie securing the boot to the outer steerer, and pull the bottom of the boot over the lower leg crown flange. Pull the outer steerer upwards until it clears the 10 11 inner steerer and remove. Remove the boot and the bottom out bumper. Using a cloth to protect the palm of your hand, compress the coil spring by pressing down on the threaded insert. It is not necessary to 12 13 14 fully compress the spring, just press enough to relieve pressure on the retaining c-clip.
Using snap ring pliers while the spring is compressed, remove the retaining c-clip from within the inner steerer. The spring assembly will decompress and rise out of the inner steerer. Separate the compression washer, top out spring, compression shaft, top spring guide, and compression spring.
Locate the underside of the fork crown. Spray all parts with isopropyl alcohol and wipe with a clean rag. Inspect all parts for wear not pictured. Generously apply grease to compression and top out springs. Insert the spring guides into the compression spring. Slide the compression spring assembly into the inner steerer. Slide the top-out spring, washer, and c-clip over the compression shaft assembly. Slide the compression shaft assembly into inner steerer.
Using a cloth to protect the palm of your hand, compress the compression spring by pressing down on the threaded insert. Using snap ring pliers, re-install the c-clip. Spray isopropyl alcohol inside the outer steerer. Wrap a clean rag around a dowel and clean the inside of the outer steerer. Inspect the bushings and inside steerer surface for excessive wear. Using a grease brush, apply a medium coat of grease Maxima SG to the bushings and D-slot flats.
Spray isopropyl alcohol on the inside and outside of the inner steerer tube. Wrap a clean rag around a dowel and clean the inside of the inner steerer. Clean the outside of the inner steerer tube with a rag. Spray isopropyl alcohol on the bottom-out bumper and clean with a rag. Inspect the bottom-out bumper for damage and replace if necessary not pictured. Inspect the steerer surface for excessive wear not pictured.
Re-install the bottom out bumper by sliding it to the base of the steerer. Using a grease brush, apply a liberal coating of grease Maxima SG to the inner steerer. Clean the boot with soapy water. Inspect for cuts or damage, and replace if necessary.
Slide the outer steerer over the inner steerer, watching through the top for the threaded insert to align and pass through the baseplate.
Wipe off any excess grease. Wet a small patch of a clean cloth with isopropyl alcohol. Using a dowel rod to work the cloth into the steerer to clean any grease from the threaded insert not pictured. Using a 6 mm hex, position the lock washer and retaining nut onto the threaded insert. Pass a long 6 mm hex through the center of the star nut and tighten the retaining nut. Do not over tighten. Using a torque wrench with a 14 mm socket extension tighten the retaining nut to in-lb 33 34 35 Place the top of the boot over the flange on the outer steerer so that the flat notch on the boot is on the back side of the fork.
Pull the bottom of the boot over the lower leg flat notch crown flange, then align a zip tie in the groove at the top of the boot so that the fastener is in the middle of the flat notch on the top boot flange. Tighten the zip tie on the back of the boot and cut off the excess. Check the function of the fork.
Re-install fork and brake caliper according to manufacturer's instructions not pictured. Keep in mind your specific shock may not require every tool listed. Once your shock is off your bicycle, be sure to remove the shock mount hardware. Spray isopropyl alcohol on entire shock and wipe with a clean rag not pictured. Remove air valve cover cap. Using a small hex wrench or pick, depress schrader valve and release all air from shock. Use a Schrader valve tool to remove the valve core.
Gently secure air can shock eyelet into bench vise. Grip the air can by hand and turn firmly counter- clockwise. Pull the air can up shock damper body slowly to remove. Remove negative spring spacer and negative spring bumper. Spray both with isopropyl 4 5 alcohol and wipe with a clean rag. Using a sharp pick, remove the black rubber dust seal from the air can.
Hold air can, narrow end down and remove blue air can glide ring with a sharp pick. Spray isopropyl alcohol inside air can and wipe 6 with a clean rag. Inspect the inside of the air can for any rough surfaces or scratches.
Run your finger along the inside surface of the air can to feel for rough surfaces or scratches as well. Replace air can if scratched or damaged not pictured. Remove large fixed air piston o-ring. Apply a few drops of suspension oil to new o-ring and 8 9 11 re-install. Install new air can glide ring and new air can dust seal.
Spray isopropyl alcohol on air can threads and eyelet body threads and wipe with a clean rag not pictured. Apply drops of blue threadlock to eyelet body threads, evenly spaced. Spread evenly onto threads and wipe away excess threadlock 12 13 14 with a clean rag.
Apply a small amount of 5wt suspension oil to the inside of the air can. Using your finger, spread and coat the entire inner air can surface with the oil.
Re-apply a few drops of suspension oil to the glide ring and rubber dust seal. Install negative spring bumper and negative spring spacer. Position air can over shock eyelet and slide down on shock body. Press air can down firmly and thread clockwise to tighten into eyelet body as tightly as possible by hand.
Use a Schrader valve tool to re-install the valve core. Using a shock pump, inflate shock to desired air pressure and install valve cover cap not pictured. Insert mounting hardware into both eyelets not pictured. Place an oil pan on the floor underneath the area of the shock. Place a large oil absorbing rag directly underneath the vise where the shock will be clamped to catch all oil that will spill from the shock during service not pictured.
Turn Rebound Adjuster fully counter-clockwise, toward the rabbit. Switch Gate if applicable to 1 2 3 the full open, unlocked, position. Remove swivel air valve cap. Using a pick, depressurize air can by depressing valve. Using a Schrader valve tool, remove nitrogen port cap. Using a pick, depressurize nitrogen by depressing valve.
Using Schrader valve tool, remove the nitrogen valve core. Secure shock sideways, by air can shaft eyelet, into bench vise.
Grip air can and turn counter-clockwise to unthread. Remove air can. Remove the negative spring bumper from inside the air can. Secure body eyelet into vise. Using a 2 mm hex, unthread and remove bleed screw.
Using an adjustable wrench, loosen and remove shaft assembly from shock body. Hold the shaft eyelet with one hand, and push seal head toward air can cap with your other hand to expose bleed hole on underside of seal head. Using a pick, push and remove the white compression ball out of the backside of seal head through bleed hole. Spray entire shaft assembly with isopropyl alcohol and wipe with a clean rag not pictured.
Using a pick, remove seal head outer glide ring seal head outer seal head and outer seal. Using a pick remove piston glide glide ring outer seal. Apply a small amount of grease to new seal head outer glide ring and outer seal and 13 14 piston glide ring and re-install.
Remove shock body from vise, and pour remaining oil into oil pan. Wrap a rag around end of shock body, insert air compressor chuck into nitrogen fill hole, and force air into body to remove IFP.
Spray isopropyl alcohol on the inside and 16 17 outside of shock body and wipe with a clean rag. Inspect the inside of the shock body for scratches. Spray IFP with isopropyl alcohol and wipe with a clean rag. Using a pick, carefully remove IFP o-ring. Apply a small amount of grease to new o-ring and re-install. Using a gauge tool, insert IFP into shock body with the stepped side visible. Set IFP height to value indicated in the table below. Using a Schrader valve core tool, install nitrogen 18 19 20 valve.
Clamp shock by shaft eyelet back into vise. Pour new oil until it is level with the top of the shock body. Slide seal head down against piston. Using a 1. This will ensure oil entry to the shaft.
Holding onto the seal head, place it onto the 21 22 23 shock body. Thread shaft assembly onto shock body. Insert new white compression ball into bleed 24 25 26 hole. Using a 2. Spray assembly with isopropyl alcohol and wipe with a clean rag not pictured. Remove shock from vise. Using a gauged pump, pressurize shock body to psi.
Using a Schrader valve tool to re-install nitrogen port cap. Using a pick, remove internal glide ring on air can. Apply a small amount of grease to new 28 29 glide ring and re-install. Grease the seal head outer glide ring, outer seal, and negative spring bumper not pictured. Slide negative spring bumper, chamfered side first, onto shock body.
Re-clamp shock by shaft eyelet and install air can, twist clockwise while pushing. Install red travel indicator o-ring. Install swivel air valve cap. Place a large oil absorbing rag directly underneath the vise where the shock will be clamped to catch all oil that will spill from h.
Record the adjustment settings for post-service i j k l m set-up. Turn the Low Speed e. Turn pre-load collar counter-clockwise until it drop stop. Remove spring retainer, spring and drop stop.
Clamp shock by body eyelet into vise. IFP reservoir and discharge air by depressing the valve. Using a Schrader valve tool, remove the Schrader valve core. Using the RockShox 24 mm pin spanner, unthread the seal head.
Pull up on seal head and remove entire shaft assembly. Using your fingers, remove inner tube from shock body. Remove shock from vise and pour all oil from shock into oil pan not pictured.
Confirm that the centering ring, located in the bottom of the shock body, is still in place not pictured. Clamp pick into vise. Slide the shock body over pick. Using the pick as a hook, gently catch the bottom of the centering ring and pull back on the shock body to dislodge the centering ring. You may have to hook the pick around the centering ring in several places in order to dislodge. Spray shaft assembly with isopropyl alcohol and wipe with a clean lint-free rag not pictured.
Using the RockShox shaft clamp tool, clamp the shaft assembly into the vise. Using a pick, remove glide ring on the main 15 16 piston. Apply a small amount of grease to new glide ring and re-install. Using a 13 mm wrench, unthread piston bolt. Carefully remove main piston assembly piston bolt, main piston, and shim stack washers , keeping all parts together and set aside. Firmly pull up on seal head and remove.
Using a pick, remove the shaft wiper seal and main shaft o-ring located in the interior of the seal head. All of these stats, figures and new features sound great on paper, but how does this new fork from RockShox actually feel on the trail?
The new BlackBox damping system combined with the more linear design of the new dual air spring creates fork action that is incredibly smooth in both small bump compliance and mid-stroke travel. As you can see by the video below, there is very little stiction during the initial travel and the fork seems to feel most comfortable around mid travel.
As you move up through the travel range, the fork does ramp up on its suspension curve like all air based suspension to prevent harsh bottom outs on hard hits. The new Reba does feel more linear as advertised than previous models and this translates to a plusher ride on the trail.
Typically, I prefer fully active suspension on the trail, so I rarely use the remote lockout feature, or any lock out on suspension forks. The lock out and Floodgate setting work flawlessly with the Reba if that feature is important to you.
The RockShox Reba Team is noticeably stiffer than previous models through the combination of the Maxle Lite thru axle and power bulges.
This comes as great news for previous Reba owners and especially the 29er crowd that was bleeding for a stiffer Reba to compliment the larger wheel diameter. The stiffer fork translates to a front end that consistently tracks through obstacles and provides a more reliable turner in hard railing situations. Normally, increased stiffness equals a higher overall weight, but at under 4 lbs…the new Reba is still a lightweight option for most cross country styled rides.
If you need a lighter, more race styled option…the new SID would probably fit your needs better and for it is based around the 32mm platform. Spring settings are adjusted via the dual air spring design on the Rock Shox Reba Team.
This dual air system provides much more adjustment than a single air system to really tune the fork to your liking. This dual air system may be foreign to those riders that are used to single air springs, but with some simple research and experimenting, it is a breeze to use.
RockShox provides a recommended air pressure chart on the spring leg to give you a good starting point. Rebound adjustment is located at the bottom of the damping fork leg and is controlled just like every other fork on the market. Adjustments are felt instantly on the trail and there is enough adjustment range to make any rider happy. As mentioned before, compression lockout adjustment is controlled via the remote lockout lever and Floodgate.
This creates an extra cable from the fork to the handlebar, but does make for ease of use on the trail. As a reviewer, I sometimes run into product that is difficult to review.
When preparing this review article, I struggled with writing a review that sounded like more of an advertisement for RockShox rather than a objective product review. You should be able to pull the fork apart at this point only a short distance, as the air side nut should still be on the damper thread , but usually the ends of the two shafts need a helping hand.
You can strike the ends of the dampers directly with the mallet, but a good habit to get into is to place a T-handle Allen key in the bottom of the shaft and strike the top of the T. This reduces the possibility of damage to the shaft and the easily marked sliders.
At this point fully remove the air side nut. When ready, slide the lower legs off; it might take a minute or two to let all the oil drip out. Work a lint-free rag down inside the lower legs to remove as much oil, grease and dirt as possible. The cleaner you make the fork prior to reassembly, the better the result will be. Use a length of dowel or similar to prod the rag inside. Now is a good time to take a look inside the lower legs and the grey wiper seals.
Check for damage and shards of anything hard or sharp that might have got wedged in the inside edges of the wiper seals. Put some in a syringe and apply to the foam wipers that sit just inside the grey wiper seals. The next step is to break out the RockShox Judy Butter grease and smear it on the inside edges of the grey wipers. This allows the fork to slide back together easily and prevents the grey wiper seals drying out. Hold the stanchions so the damper rods are horizontal then slide the lower legs on.
Before the damper rods poke through the holes in the lowers, up-end the fork and add 10ml of suspension oil to both legs. You may need to wiggle them to line up with the damper rods. Take care when pushing the stanchion tubes through the lip seals because you can damage or unseat the seals.
The fork is now sealed and will not leak oil, provided everything has been done correctly. Adding air is easy with a shock pump, but be sure to use your previous pressures so the fork retains its familiar feel. Later, you can adjust the air pressure settings to dial in the performance of your newly serviced fork.
Remove the Maxle through-axle from the lower legs and ensure the threaded section has a light coating of grease. This will make insertion and removal easier, and less likely to bind or permanently damage the threads in the right-hand dropout. Ring piece: Many riders use a zip tie around a stanchion to give a visual indication of their used travel. They cost next to nothing from electrical retailers.
Slide it on and look like a pro.
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